A fantastic project I had the opportunity to work on involves a common issue with custom picture framing: the corners don’t match up. This is a problem you get especially on frames that have a dramatically heavy relief or texture to them, and frames that have some sort of sculpted pattern. At Coventry Gallery and Framing, we have a solution to this common issue: we sculpt the corners by hand.The moulding itself comes in long sticks of wood. I receive them in eight to ten foot lengths which I then cut down into four pieces with perfectly beveled corners that fit together to make your frame. Therein lies the cause of the problem: While that pattern may be continuous down the length, chunks of that pattern get cut out of the whole in order to make those four sides of the fr
ame. The result is that the patterns meet at the corners and stop suddenly, distracting the eye with its imperfection.
In this instance we have such a frame that our customer wants on their piece. It has an attractive, deep brown rope pattern that owes part of its beauty to the heavily sculpted design. The customer loves the style, and I feel it’s perfect for the piece we’ve selected it for. However, we’re both concerned: you can see right on the sample that the corners don’t quite match up where the round, rolling curves stop abruptly at the seam. We want a more finished look that doesn’t take so much away from the presentation.
So I chop the frame as usual. When I join the corners of the frame, I can see that we have the exact problem as exemplified in the moulding’s corner sample. I’ve colored the flat part of the join, where the two legs come together, to make the bare wood the same color as the surface of the frame. This makes the problem less of an eyesore, but the interruption of the pattern is still fairly noticeable.
I then apply an air-drying sculpting material to the uneven pattern in the corners to fix this. It works just like clay in that I can sculpt it to whatever shape I need. I pack a little bit into each spot where the pattern stops and sculpt one leg into the other for a smooth, rounded transition. This covers the seam where the two legs meet and lets the pattern on one leg blend into the pattern on its adjoining piece.
Letting it sit overnight, the sculpting material hardens, and I prime the bright white material with a rusty-red primer. The wood’s original finish was primed with such a color which you can just barely see through the finish, and I want to duplicate the color of the frame as much as possible. Once dry, I apply a couple darker coats, bringing the color of the sculpted area to an exact match of the rest of the frame.
The result is beautiful. Our customer gets to have a heavily sculpted, rich looking frame that has hand crafted, seamless corners. The best part: I don’t charge extra for this! I want every frame that comes out of my shop to look like it was professionally crafted, and I will go to great lengths to achieve that if need be. Most custom frame shops would stop at the uneven join, falling back on the excuse that this is the property of the frame. At Coventry Gallery and Framing, we are craftsmen, our standards are higher, and you get a lot more for the same amount of money.














The other day, a gentleman brought in just such a piece. Here we have an old, thin wood framed piece, with a yellowing paper mat and some dust or mold creeping in under the glass. I see a lot of this in older framed pieces. Professional picture framing techniques are a relatively new thing, and you see all sorts of materials that we would now consider inappropriate in common use in older picture frames. Take a look around your home, I’m sure you have something like this.
When I get a job like this, the first thing I do is pull it apart and clean it out. Outside of a couple scuffs, the frame is in good shape and the customer would like to reuse it in the new design. Some cleaner on both the inside and outside of the glass goes a long way towards clearing up the cloudy look that was given by the grime of age. The first thing I notice after getting the piece apart is that the art itself had been pre-mounted on a thicker acidic board and essentially taped in place with masking tape. The customer is long gone by the time I notice this, and I make a decision to give this piece a proper mounting when I put it back together.
Countermatting is the appropriate way to mount art on thicker substrate, be it a photo mounted on a thick board, or sometimes whole magazines or comic books can be mounted in this way. To do a countermat, I first use some acid free foamcore to use as a backing. I then center the art on the board, and cut some strips of archival mat that will be attached to the backing. I fix the strips in place so that they fit snugly around the art. When I place the finished matting on top of the piece, the art is sandwiched between backing and mat, with the archival board strips around the edges to keep the art centered. No adhesive actually touches the art, there is no chance of the art slipping around inside the frame, and everything will fit flush inside the frame with no awkward bowing of the mat.
The matting was chosen with the customer during the design process when the piece was first brought in. Many factors can go into consideration when choosing a design for your piece. Maybe you want to match the new look of a re-done room. Maybe you want to give the frame a fresh, new look that’s more up to date. In this case, taking apart an old frame, cleaning it out, and re-fitting the piece with some new, acid-free mats has rejuvenated this piece of art. There was a lot of detail in the image that was lost behind musty glass and acid stained matting, now this old piece has been made brand-new while staying within the budget of the customer.